A Note to Readers...

When I first started blogging in 2002, the food blog was still a novelty. I was inspired by an even older blog, Bread, Coffee, Chocolate, Yoga, which apparently ceased publication in 2009. Restaurant blogging is a difficult activity to maintain, because a blogger needs to have a lot of time, extra money, and motivation. Also, a new food blog seems to pop up every day, so it is difficult to be original and relevant; how many reviews of Veritas does a person really want to read?

Some bloggers with cooking expertise have gone on to write well received novels and cookbooks, but I have never been much of a cook. (You can see evidence of my abysmal cooking at http://cookingwhoops.blogspot.com. I briefly lived in an area where there were almost no good restaurants,  hence my ill-fated foray into the kitchen.)

My intention with this blog has been to spread the word about great NYC restaurants, markets, and events. However, for a few reasons, I am no longer able to keep up with the New York food scene as much as I would like. For one, I now have an amazingly active toddler. Also, I am now spending much of my time in burgeoning foodieopolis Portland, Oregon. So, for those of you who want to keep up with the always exciting world of the NYC food scene, I invite you to follow the plethora of energetic young NYC food bloggers. I will soon be focusing my blogging energy on a new project, The Rose And The Apple, which concentrates on the culinary cross-pollination between Portland and NYC. Happy Dining!

It's the Culinary Event of the Season!

New York Taste: A World of Flavors is taking place next Monday (November 7), 2011 at Skylight SoHo, 275 Hudson Street. General admission starts at 7 p.m., and participating restaurants include Fatty Crab, Morimoto, and Hill Country. Don't miss this!

The Chocolate Show!

It's never too early to start thinking about the annual Chocolate Show! It takes place from November 10-13 this year at the Metropolitan Pavilion. (It spent one year at the Javits Center, which did not suit it quite as well.) This year, the show is especially focused on United States chocolate, and will showcase 65 chocolatiers.

Salli Vates' Best of 2011

I realize that this list might seem premature, as 2011 is only three-quarters finished, but here is my completely subjective "Best of 2011" list. Be forewarned that the categories are entirely arbitrary.

Best Milkshake: Shake Shack's "Fair Shake." This thick vanilla milkshake, spiked with 100% arabica, has an exotic coffee flavor. (Various locations)

Best Scones: Harney and Sons SoHo. These dainty vanilla scones are better than the scones at Alice's Tea Cup and Balthazar Bakery. So buttery that they crumble apart and melt in your mouth, they are served with jam and cream. (One word of advice: order the sweet scones instead of the savory ham scones, which are also inexplicably sweet.) (433 Broome St., 212-933-4853.)

Most Inventive Omakase: Sushi of Gari. Yes, it can get dangerous; you order until you are full, having no idea how much money you've spent. But believe me, it's worth it. Amazing creations like salmon roe topped with silken quail egg and grilled squid legs with sea urchin cause you to temporarily forget your credit card balance. (402 East 78th St., 212-517-5340.)


Most Surprisingly Kid-Friendly Restaurant: Mandoo Bar. Any child will enjoy watching the Korean dumpling masters at work, and will probably even eat the results. The fried tofu is also quite unintimidating. (2 West 32nd Street, New York - (212-279-3075)


Best Restaurant for Diners in Disagreement: Greenwich Grill. One of you wants Italian, the other craves sushi. Don't argue, just head over to this TriBeCa duplex; one of you can order housemade rotelli while the other orders sashimi from the basement sushi bar, Sushi Azabu. Just be forewarned that on busy nights, it can take a while to get that coveted tekka maki. (428 Greenwich St., 212-274-0428.)


Best Retro Pastries: Lulu Cake Boutique. This Chelsea newcomer features a variety of pastries that are as nostalgic as they are decadent. Chocolate-covered Twinkies and snowballs with real coconut will satisfy both the preservative-free purist and the indiscriminate glutton. (112 Eighth Ave., 212-242-5858.)

Most Authentic Japanese: Nakanaka. No, it's not cheap ($8 for one piece of sushi "gunkan"), but you are guaranteed to feel like you are in Japan. The tempura with green tea salt is to die for, as is the broiled duck over udon. (458 West 17th St., # 1, 212-661-2791.)


Best New Transplant: Why, Ladurée, of course, provided that you have at least an hour to wait in line for the famous macarons. I made time for boxes of six strawberry-mint, chocolate, raspberry, and salted butter caramel cookies. (864 Madison Ave., 646-558-3157.)


Best Grilled Cheese: Beecher's New York. The NYC outpost of this Seattle cheese company puts together some shockingly good grilled cheese. My favorite version contains whole-grain mustard, tomato, and lots of gooey melted Flagship cheese. I just wish Beecher's didn't run out of breakfast sandwiches so fast. (900 Broadway, 212-466-3340.)

Best Croissants: Le Moulin à Cafe. Fresh out of the oven, these croissants are incomparable, and I certainly appreciated them last Saturday, when everything was closing due to the tropical storm/hurricane. The coffee is La Colombe. (1439 York Ave., 212-288-5088.)


More to come...

The Best Chicken in NYC?

In 2009, Bon Appetit published a recipe for chicken al mattone, or, chicken under a brick. The author of the recipe was Sfoglia's former chef Ron Suhanosky, who counted it as one of his signature dishes (the other is pappardelle alla Bolognese). I would not be exaggerating if I said that this is possibly the most delicious chicken dish in NYC. (I rarely write about forgettable or unappetizing meals, and I realize that this blog is full of praise and superlatives, but last night at Sfoglia actually left me speechless.)

Sfoglia is a lovely little trattoria across from the 92Y. Murano crystal chandeliers shed an amber light over a stucco-walled room with rustic, communal wooden tables. The ambiance is casually elegant. Sfoglia has been open for six years, and the restaurant fills quickly with appreciative locals and 92Y subscribers. Last night, My mother and I waited at the entrance for a while as the hostess gracefully dealt with an apparently frustrating phone call; a potential diner was miffed at the lack of available reservations.

We sat at the end of a wooden table adorned with apricot-colored roses, and were soon presented with fresh bread so hot that steam emanated from it. This crusty bread had a soft, moist interior, making it a good vehicle for the dish of of olive oil served with it.

A chilled cucumber soup with salmon roe sounded season-appropriate, but we decided to split an appetizer portion of the pappardelle alla bolognese. (If this was an appetizer, I'm almost afraid to see what the dinner portion was.) A rich sauce of beef, veal, pork and lamb with a sprinkling of fresh parmigiano coated wide al dente noodles, and there was plenty of meat and sauce left over for sopping the bread in.

Lamb, chicken, fish, skate, what do we appreciate? I'm sure we would have loved all of it, but we thought the chicken sounded so tasty that we both ordered it. The half-chicken, marinated in olive oil, rosemary, thyme, and garlic, served with a lemon wedge, was bursting with flavor. The seared, crisp, crackly skin enveloped moist, fragrant white and dark meat. The manager informed us that the secret is in the searing; some restaurants do not wait until the pan is hot enough and lay the brick too early. (In her spare time, she told us, she actually visited various restaurants in NYC that serve chicken under a brick, and all of the other preparations paled in comparison.) I ordered mine with the advertised dried, crushed red pepper, while my mother opted to omit it.

Desserts were another revelation. Mint chocolate-chip gelato was obviously made with fresh mint, while wine cracker gelato had a savory hint in its sweetness. The server had also told us about a special dessert that had to be ordered at the beginning of the meal. If the chicken had got my tongue, this dessert indeed left me completely speechless. An open-faced warm tart, filled with the freshest ripe peach slices and tart blackberries, gave off a heavenly buttery aroma. The juice from the summer fruit seeped into the sweet biscuit crust base, while the crust on the sides could be broken off and eaten like a cookie. Atop this masterpiece lay two scoops of the homemade wine cracker gelato. I finished much more of this than I should have.

I was really unprepared for such delight at a neighborhood Italian restaurant on the Upper East Side. It really says something when my mother, who eats no dark meat, finished her chicken in its entirety.

Trattoria Sfoglia: 135 East 92nd St., (212) 831-1402.

East End Kitchen

Almost nothing pleases me more than a cozy neighborhood restaurant in the middle of a residential block. Two-week-old East End Kitchen, the successor to the defunct Le Boeuf A La Mode, is right around the corner from me, and I had the good fortune to celebrate my aunt's seventieth birthday there tonight. (I don't know if it was the restaurant's good fortune to serve us, as my aunt has a laundry list of don't-eat-this-and-don't-eat-thats, and my 19-month-old prefers running to sitting, but we certainly had a swell time.)

East End Kitchen is a seasonal, sustainable enterprise that would be right at home on the North Shore. The appetizers include watermelon and goat cheese salad, crab cakes with fennel, and chilled tomato soup, and the main courses focus on simple but satisfying meat dishes (chicken with potatoes and shallots, duck and cherries, pork with peaches) with a sprinkling of seafood entrees.

I have to hand it to the servers, as our party presented some unique challenges. (I almost feel as though I should post a public apology.) First of all, we arrived 10 minutes before the restaurant was due to open, and the staff was having a meeting. No matter, we were graciously seated, as it was raining heavily. A delightful basket of mini-baguettes with unsalted butter was brought to the table. My son threw his bread on the floor. (I picked it up.) More baguettes soon arrived.

My aunt wanted lettuce with mayonnaise for an appetizer. She was presented with a nice plate of mixed greens. "This isn't lettuce," she complained. "It is a variety of lettuce leaves," patiently explained the waitress. "What were you looking for?" It was obvious that my aunt was expecting a plate of pale iceberg leaves. The waitress apologized, explaining that the restaurant did not have any romaine or iceberg and mostly focused on seasonal, local produce.

My aunt also has an aversion to all meats served with sweet accompaniments, which nixed the pork and the duck. As I have written before, she is also severely allergic to pepper. Fortunately, a perfectly rare New York strip steak in a wine sauce with velvety mashed potatoes, green beans and mushrooms gave her nothing to complain about. A burger topped with Gruyere and heirloom tomatoes pleased my mother, and a side of French fries placated my son. The hand-cut fries were outrageously good and crispy, and they passed my son's seal of approval. For myself, I had sort of an interesting non-Italian take on pasta: Swiss chard tortellini with chervil topped with melted cheddar in an unadorned cream sauce.

Serendipitea City Harvest black tea scented with vanilla and orchids was a fragrant accompaniment to a bowl of chocolate mousse, pecans and raspberry coulis. I would like to try the cherry clafouti or the frozen blueberry souffle, but that will have to wait for another visit.

I commend East End Kitchen for gentle, good-natured service, a concise menu of inviting choices, and an uplifting atmosphere.

East End Kitchen: 539 East 81st St., (212) 879-0450.

Sweets News

Today's Sweets News focuses on treats both French and Japanese.

• Le Moulin A Cafe. The former La Mediterrannee has transformed itself into a French bakery, complete with macarons, pains au chocolat, and shelves full of imported French butter cookies. I stopped by there today for a croissant and a La Colombe cafe au lait. Only downside: the place refuses credit cards for purchases under $10. (1439 York Ave., 212-288-5088.)

• KAI Sweets. I am so excited about a present of artisanal Japanese puddings I received from a friend who visited KAI Sweets at Mitsuwa Marketplace. The little glass jars contain flavors like sweet black sesame. When I run out, I'll make a trip out to New Jersey to replace them. (Mitsuwa Marketplace, 595 River Road, Edgewater, NJ, 201-840-4050.)

Hill Country Fried Chicken

One of my guiltiest summer pleasures is a box of three "Texas tenders" (huge battered chicken fingers with a choice of dipping sauces - I get the buttermilk ranch) at Hill Country Chicken. (I don't know what it is about summer that makes me want to subsist on fried foods and barbecue, but Hill Country fulfills all these inexplicable cravings.) And now, with the free lemonade refills, it's even harder to stay away than ever. (I don't know how many refills you get, as I stopped at one, but it was perfect for the hot weather we had today.) The fresh lemonade is bracingly tart, and provides a refreshing complement to all of the rich food.

I've also enjoyed the chicken sandwich with smoked Applewood bacon and avocado, and the relatively new macaroni and cheese (the latest side is an ancho chili applesauce). But it's those Texas tenders that has me coming back for more...

Hill Country Chicken: 1123 Broadway, (212) 257-6446.

Fairway To Go!

Great news for gourmets on the go... on Monday, August 8, the new Upper East Side Fairway gets a new companion: Fairway Café to Go (240 East 86th St.). Baked goodies, sandwiches, and fresh-roasted coffee are on the menu from 7 a.m.-10 p.m. One special new baked item is the Scarborough herbal bread with parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme.

Free Lunch for Kids!

You may have heard that there is no such thing as a free lunch, but if you are a child, this rule doesn't apply at NYC pools in all five boroughs. The SchoolFood Summer Meals Program provides a free, well-balanced lunch to anyone who is 18 years and under, or who has a disability. Today at the John Jay Pool in Manhattan, the lunch consisted of a sandwich on whole-wheat bread, a plum, a side of cole slaw, and chocolate milk. This generous program ends September 2.

Eataly's Cheese Slicers

I always find that cheese (and tea, for that matter) never taste as good at home. When I visit places like the Bedford Cheese Shop and the Murray's stand at Grand Central, I feel like some magic is being performed. The cheese specialist takes a glistening silver implement, rakes it across some plump white or yellow slab of deliciousness, and gives me a tempting taste. I proceed to buy a half pound or so, but never experience that same magic. At home, I clumsily gouge out a hunk with the wrong type of knife, or even (gasp) take a bite out of the uncut cheese. I know I am doing something wrong.

Yesterday, at Eataly, I happened upon a display of Paderno World Cuisine stainless-steel wire cheese cutters, parmigiano knives, and cheese slicers. I wondered if they might be the solution to my pressing cheese problem. There were two types of cheese planes, soft and regular, which were each around $19. For a second I contemplated buying both of them, but I couldn't justify it. Maybe I should talk to the cheese specialist, I thought. I went over to him, told him about my at-home cheese issue, and here is his expert advice:

"First of all, as a guy who's been working with cheese for years, I never use cheese planes. I prefer a knife. But if you must have a cheese plane, use the regular one. I would never use a cheese plane for soft cheese. Also, you're storing your cheese all wrong. Never store it in the plastic wrap it comes in. Use wax paper, or Gladware, or even tinfoil."

Thanks, Mr. Cheese Guy! Next time, I'll have to get a lesson in which mostardas go with the different cheeses.

Butter Lane

Ah, Butter Lane, why didn't I find this cupcakery before? The moist, not-too-sweet chocolate, vanilla, or banana cakelets with their lovely dollops of buttercream have sent me over the moon. What other bakery gives you a choice between French or American chocolate toppings, as well as French or American vanilla? Out of all of the different cupcakes I sampled, from chocolate cake topped with strawberry icing and half a strawberry, sea salt caramel icing over a chocolate base, buttery cinnamon honey on a vanilla cake and many more, my favorite has to be the French vanilla over chocolate. This particular buttercream is shot through with vanilla bean, and it is creamier, lighter and not as sweet as some of the other toppings. Its subtlety lets the slight hint of coffee in the chocolate cake radiate through. I wasn't able to try the French Callebaut chocolate meringue icing, as it was sold out, but I plan to try the special seasonal frostings: key lime, lemon, and grapefruit ginger.

Butter Lane: 240 Seventh Ave., Brooklyn, (212) 677-2880. There is also a location in the East Village.

Picnicking in the Park

Although it's easy to pack up a picnic basket and head to the park, this is New York, so there's an even easier option... you can actually order food and have it delivered to the park! Here are a couple options.

Carl Schurz Park: For those lucky enough to live by this beautiful waterside park and playground, there is an added bonus, that of Pintaile's Pizza (212-396-3479) delivery. In addition to many varieties of vegetarian and non-vegetarian pizza, Pintaile's offers sandwiches, salads, and wings. If you don't want to humor the Good Humor truck at the park, you can order a pint of Ciao Bella gelato from Pintaile's.

Central Park: If you plan to hang out in NYC's backyard, call up Agata & Valentina's (212-452-0690, x 1) and order a picnic box. There are three varieties: salad, sandwich, and supreme.

Enjoy your summer in the city!

Eataly On A Budget

"Can you believe these prices?" an incredulous tourist asked her friend while perusing the compotes and jams at Eataly. "I'll see you outside..."

I really wanted to take the woman aside and tell her where the deals at Eataly were, but I'm sometimes wary of talking to strangers. So, since I wasn't able to impart this information to her, I will lay it out here. It's true that many of the prices at Eataly are not for the faint of heart, but there are some reasonably-priced gems amid all of the luxury. First of all, the thick slices of mozzarella and tomato focaccia at the bakery can be enjoyed for only $2.80. One piece is easily enough for lunch, and if you feel like splurging, you can add some meat for a dollar. For other bread-based items, the mais bread is around $3, and you can also check out the half-priced day-old bakery bin.

For chocoholics who blanch at the thought of spending almost $18 for a bag of gianduja, the Venchi stand sells a line of delicious little Unico bars for $1.80. (There used to be a lot more varieties; I think the only two left are coconut cream and a bar for those who are reducing the amount of sugar in their diets. I hope they get the cuor di cacao bar back.)

The sandwich bar is always a deal, with all hot and cold panini going for around $7-$8. Vegetarians who miss the hot pressed taleggio and mushroom sandwich will be glad to know that it is making a reappearance next week. By the way, the sandwich bar also offers arancini (stuffed rice balls) with ragu for $3.20 each.

If you get to the cappuccino bar around lunchtime and have a hankering for something savory, you can buy a couple salty prosciutto croissants, which should fill you up. Finally, if you want to sit down to enjoy the Eataly experience but don't have the wallet for Manzo, go to the cheese and charcuterie bar and order yourself a generous caprese salad with bread for $11. (As a side note, I was checking out the new La Birreria menu and there were several items under $20.)

See, you can enjoy Eataly without spending a million dollars!

Eataly: 200 Fifth Avenue: (212) 229-2560.

Breakfast Pizza at Farinella

When I think of breakfast pizza, I usually picture being at the airport before 8 a.m. and dejectedly looking at the unappetizing slices under the heat lamp. But there is one place in the city that makes a truly delicious breakfast pizza: Farinella Italian Bakery Pizza & Panini. This pizzeria, which specializes in paper-thin crust pizza, makes a delectable morning slice which is dotted with salty little bites of pancetta. On top there are half-done sunny-side-up eggs and a drizzle of caramelly balsamic vinegar. In case you are not a fan of the unorthodox pizza, Farinella is happy to provide you with traditional marinara, margherita and pepperoni slices. It's all good.

(ETA: For another breakfast pizza option, try the organic scrambled egg and Fontina baked between two slices of thin, crispy focaccia at Gina La Fornarina, just a few blocks away on 2nd Ave. between 81st and 82nd.)

Farinella Italian Bakery Pizza & Panini: 1132 Lexington Ave. (212) 327-2702.

A Tony Awards Dinner

This Sunday, Fairway’s Café and Steakhouse (2127 Broadway, 212-595-1888) will be celebrating the 2011 Tony Awards with a three-course prix fixe menu and lots of champagne. If you are especially knowledgeable about the theater, you might win a $100 Fairway gift card, as there's going to be a contest to see who chooses the most Tony winners. As for the menu, it will dishes like jumbo lump crab cakes, filet mignon, and peach-blueberry pie. Act now and make a reservation.

David Burke Kitchen

The latest gem in David Burke's empire is four-month-old David Burke Kitchen. Located at the edge of Chinatown, it features its proprietor's emphasis on farm-to-table food. The restaurant's atmosphere is rather incongruous; a loud techno soundtrack provides a jarring backdrop to a rustic room decorated with photos of farmhands. As the volume escalates, it becomes difficult to concentrate on how delicious the food is, but this seems to be an increasingly common complaint.

The menu features comfort food with a twist. It's impossible not to order at least five appetizers, which also include the lighter "snacks" and "jars." For jars, our table ordered a basil-accented tomato, ricotta and eggplant jar which reminded me of a deconstructed eggplant parmigiana and the ocean cocktail, which was a spicy ceviche of shrimp, scallops and lobster served with refreshing endive leaves. We then progressed to snacks of salmon pastrami rolled around pretzel sticks and skewers of decadent date and peanut butter croquettes wrapped with slices of maple bacon.

The next dish was one of my favorites of the night. A bowl of mellow tomato gazpacho featured a dainty round napoleon based on a thin disk of watermelon, which was layered with sweet lobster meat and a layer of chive and salt-sprinkled lemon creme fraiche. For main courses, the tuna was a study in crimson: crispy sushi-grade slices were accompanied by a tart plum sauce and roasted beets. If I had it to do over again, I would not have ordered the short ribs and cavatelli with truffle cream and dried wild mushroom chips. Although this dish was delicious, it was probably the heaviest on the menu, and was reminiscent of beef stroganoff. Next time, I will take advantage of all the line-caught fish and local produce on the menu.

Desserts were predictably cute and comforting. Sugar-dusted fried donuts were served with fun tubes of caramel, chocolate and raspberry, as well as a selection of ice cream sandwiches. The peach cobbler could have been served warmer and was rather plain Jane, but this was forgotten when complimentary little packages of crunchy chocolates were brought by.

If you've ever seen the show "Portlandia," you may have been amused by an episode where two diners obsess over the origin of the chicken at a restaurant. They keep asking, "But is it local?" The waiter presents them with a certificate showing the chicken's given name, biography, and the farm where he lived. I will be moving to Portland at the end of the summer, so I guess it's time for me to start taking advantage of the farm-to-table movement!

David Burke Kitchen: James Hotel, 23 Grand St., (212) 201-9119.

Sweets News: Early Summer Edition

Here are your Sweets News items for May 27, 2011:

• The temperatures are climbing, and just in time for the summer weather, Payard Bakery (116 West Houston St.) is serving up delectable macaron ice cream bars. The bars come in flavors like chocolate brownie with Mexican vanilla bean ice cream, toasted coconut with coconut mango sorbet, and berry with strawberry cheesecake ice cream. I still miss Payard's original location on Lexington Avenue, but I'm happy to travel to the Plaza Hotel or West Houston Street to sample the sweets.

• On May 29, a plethora of summer sweets like Coolhaus' ice cream sandwiches and Brewla Bars will be gracing the Fulton Stall Market at the South Street Seaport. The market, which will sell all sorts of edibles, is celebrating its third year on Fulton Street and will be open every Sunday from 10:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Other vendors include Grandaisy Bakery and The Groovy Baker.

Alloro

You could be forgiven for assuming that Alloro was just another of the many red-sauce Italian restaurants that the Upper East Side seems to be so fond of. The room, with its black candelabras and emerald-green nailhead chairs, evokes Old World charm. The food, however, is surprisingly - and excitingly - contemporary. Sweet flavors such as licorice, cocoa and coffee show up in unexpected places; a caramelized sherry enlivens coffee-dusted cauliflower foam to accompany seared salmon. This is the dish I ordered for my main course; the foam reminded me of a savory version of tiramisu's mascarpone filling. But let me start from the beginning.

The server mentioned a cacio e pepe gnocchi with mint dish and a zucchini flower appetizer. We decided on the latter, which was a dish of four delectable, greaseless battered blossoms stuffed full of anchovy-flecked mozzarella, served with a scoop of tomato sorbet and a slice of prosciutto-topped focaccia. I also couldn't resist the burrata three ways. The decadent cheese was layered with olive-oil soaked crostini, and served as a creamy-centered fritter, and as a round mold of cheese with salty salmon roe hiding inside.

In addition to the aforementioned salmon, we ordered what was perhaps the most conservative item on the menu: penne in tomato sauce with melted mozzarella and basil oil. Even this dish was special; it was punctuated with a crisp fried basil leaf. I should mention that for those who are following a gluten-free diet (this is not me), Alloro will happily oblige you with gluten-free pasta. (I wonder if they do a gluten-free version of their homemade sheep ricotta, pecorino and pear ravioli tossed in butter and poppy seeds.)

The dessert menu seemed to include a lot of fruit soups; we bypassed these, instead ordering strawberry and chocolate four ways and a white chocolate parfait. Although I didn't try the latter, as I'm not a big white chocolate fan, I will describe my strawberry chocolate dessert. The chocolate-drizzled plate included a dark chocolate truffle, a scoop of ice cream that tasted intensely of fresh strawberries, a strawberry parfait with cream, and a mint-garnished chocolate mousse. I still can't decide which was my favorite.

Alloro: 307 East 77th St., (212) 535-2866.

Yakitori Tori Shin

As I wrote in a previous post, I really miss Midtown East's Yakitori Torys. Fortunately, there's a great yakitori place that's not too far away: Yakitori Tori Shin. This very authentic restaurant specializes in exotic chicken parts, but there is much more on the menu. The other night, my companion and I went there to check it out. At the risk of sounding corny, I could liken our meal to a succession of fireworks, with each bite more impressive than the last (and only one dud).

The dim, smoky room was already packed early in the evening; reservations are strongly recommended at this place. We sat at one end of the bar and watched as people who were much more familiar with the menu ordered dish after dish. If I had to do things over again, I think I would have followed their lead, ordering the special chicken meatball served with a dish of egg (which came first?) and a buttered shiitake stuffed with chicken breast meat.

We began with the tsukune, which is one of my favorite dishes at Yakitori Totto. Unfortunately, although this meatball was fragrant with scallions, it was filled with little nibs of unpalatable gristle. I was very disappointed. Everything else was delicious, though, even if it seemed as though we waited 20 minutes for the next bite to arrive.

A skewer of three chunks of sauce-lacquered chicken liver was very tasty. Grilled zucchini strips came with a wonderful spicy mayo. Creamy Japanese eggplant was embellished with feathery bonito flakes. Then came the skewers of sweet soy chicken and the chicken with piquant yuzu-kosho. Atsu-age, or fried tofu, was as delicious as the chicken, with its sharp soy-and-scallion seasoning. Gingko nuts were better than popcorn. We had fun watching the white-jacketed chefs inspect every skewer and sprinkle it with seasoning. The most indelible taste of the night was definitely our last bite: the pork belly. A cherry tomato was encased in slightly charred, tender pork belly meat daubed with spicy citrus paste and topped with shredded shiso leaves. The tomato burst with hot, sweet juice - culinary fireworks.

Yakitori Tori Shin: 1193 First Ave., (212) 988-8408.

Mother's Day at Radiance Tea House & Books

I needed a place to celebrate Mother's Day, and I had a pretty tall order to fill. We were meeting our friends the Olives, who have two little girls, one of whom is an avid reader. Both girls love rice and miso soup. We also had someone in our party who avoids all wheat, spices and added oils, several people who were trying to save money, and my very active 16-month-old toddler (Baby Vates), who only seems to eat pancakes. What to do?

I found the perfect answer in Radiance Tea House & Books. A surprisingly serene oasis near Times Square, the restaurant features an inexpensive menu of dumplings, rice bowls, salads, and noodles, as well as an impressive tea list and a beautiful selection of ceramics for sale. There were books for the Olives, gluten-free dishes, bowls of miso soup, and plenty of room for my little one to toddle around (although I had to make sure that he didn't try to go down the staircase). Best of all, everything ranged around $10.

We ordered a plate of steamed bok choy, which was seasoned with a light soy sauce. Chewy, translucent vegetable dumplings arrived with ponzu; unfortunately, Baby Vates was not interested in the slightest. I instead occupied him with cranberry sesame crackers, the same ones that came with our tea. Our gluten-free parties were satisfied with shrimp/mango and teriyaki salmon rice bowls, and I devoured a salmon salad with a peanut dressing, which was loaded with avocado slices, mango, and sweet five-spiced roasted pecans.

Baby Vates started to roam the place. He was taking the gift boxes of tea apart, so I ordered him some almond tofu with strawberry sauce and fresh strawberries to try to distract him. Again, he was not interested, so I ended up eating the dessert; it was light and refreshing. There was also a tea-colored dragon fruit dessert for Mother's Day - this was an acquired taste.

I can't say that I didn't envy the solo diners relaxing over a pot of premium rose tea and books about Chinese brush painting, but I did have a swell time.

Radiance Tea House & Books: 158 West 55th St., (212) 217-0442.

Sweets News

I stopped by the Redeye Grill (890 7th Ave., 212-541-9000) tonight to preview this special dessert, which was conceived in honor of the Kentucky Derby. This very R-rated mint julep pie, which comes with a snifter of Jim Beam, will be offered from 3 p.m. onward at The Redeye, Trattoria Dell’Arte, Café Fiorello and Bond 45. The dessert will only be available on Saturday - stop by and try it, and if you absolutely must have it again, E-mail me for the recipe. Here is my own personal account of the dessert: it's a thick, creamy mint ice cream pie on a chocolate cookie crust, topped with a mountain of freshly whipped, slightly sweetened cream and served with a decadent caramel-bourbon sauce. The best way to eat this pie is to alternate bites with sips of bourbon; the bourbon adds an extra-buttery aftertaste.

In case you'd like a less caloric treat, the classic Mint Julep, which is the official beverage of the Kentucky Derby, will be served at all four restaurants. It's supposed to be sunny and in the 70's this Saturday - perfect for a dose of minty refreshment.

Little Brown: Have Some Chocolate With That!

There are two things that invariably improve my mood: coffee and chocolate. So it was with glee that I walked through the doors of Little Brown Chocolate Bakery & Coffee. I'd been waiting for it to open all winter. The cafe bills itself as a "chocolate & coffee love affair," and thankfully, you can have a menage a trois with both of them. Another slogan that might apply to this place is: "Have some chocolate with that." Little Brown offers a menu of breakfast and lunch items with chocolate mixed into just about everything. Steel cut oats? Have some Belgian chocolate drizzled on it. What about a low-fat yogurt parfait with fruit? There's Belgian chocolate cream on top. Even pancake bites (oh Lord, these pancake bites are addictive... I ordered a box for my picky 16-month-old and ended up eating half of them) can be served with bananas, maple syrup... and chocolate. About the only things that don't have chocolate are the buffalo mozzarella and tomato sandwich (yum) and the turkey bacon and frittata on a croissant. There's also a large selection of chocolate bakery items that includes a gluten-free chocolate cake. As for the coffee, the mochaccino is rich and thick without tasting like someone emptied out an entire container of Hershey's chocolate syrup into it (I'm looking at you, Starbucks; your location across the street from Little Brown is going to get a run for its money).

Little Brown Chocolate Bakery & Coffee: 1269 Lexington Ave.

Hummus Kitchen

When I think of the words "vegan, kosher and healthy," the word "delicious" doesn't immediately follow. However, the hummus at Hummus Kitchen could be described as unreasonably delicious. Adorned with plump whole chickpeas, it's sprinkled with lots of paprika. Its texture is made unctuous with olive oil, and its flavor is rich with tahini. This warm hummus puts those plastic supermarket containers of beige to shame! And it's not the only reason to eat at Hummus Kitchen.

In the non-vegan category, the green shakshuka, or baked eggs with spinach, peppers and tomatoes, warms you to the core. Grilled chicken is tender and is accompanied by a huge Mediterranean chopped salad. There is a condiment (I don't know the name of it) that is addictive in the hurts-so-good way that Indian mango pickles are; it tastes intensely of mint, parsley, vinegar and hot pepper. As it's Passover right now, you won't be served the traditional pita bread, but will instead enjoy a delectable thin herbed cornbread... and some matzo, of course.

Hummus Kitchen: Various locations. The one we eat at is located at 1613 Second Ave., (212) 988-0090.

Sweets News

Here's some very sweet Easter news. On April 24 (Easter Sunday), Benoit (60 West 55th St.) will be holding a special dessert buffet, which includes lemon tarts, strawberry cake, raspberry shortbread stacks, chocolate mousse, and meringue "floating islands."

Time Out for Hunger

Do you want to dine out and do good at the same time? Sunday is annual Time Out for Hunger day. 160 restaurants are participating in this exciting event that benefits the Food Bank for New York City. Even Cafe Grumpy is getting in on the action this year, so your great cup of joe goes towards a great cause.

Valentine's Day 2011

Are you looking to make your Valentine's Day extra-delicious? Here are some ideas:

• Indulge in heart-shaped lobster ravioli at bahr|ché (26 Astor Place, 212-260-2220). The $45 Valentine's Day meal also includes champagne and chocolate bonbons.

• Put a Japanese twist on things with Kyotofu's (705 Ninth Ave., 212-974-6012) three-course dessert menu and a glass of champagne or sake. Warm raspberry mochi chocolate cake with fresh raspberry sauce will be sure to make you feel romantic. Or, if you want to celebrate a bit early, attend a couples-only kaiseki meal at Nadaman Hakubai (Feb. 11-12) (66 Park Ave., The Kitano, 212- 885-7072. Contact: Manami).
  

• Have your strawberries and champagne in chocolate form: 2 Chicks With Chocolate is offering a wonderful assortment of handcrafted truffles in romantic flavors. You can buy them online or at The Chocolate Library (111 St Marks Place, 212-995-5001).

• Before you dine out, get a head start on getting into the mood at The Michelangelo (152 West 51st St., 212-765-1900). The hotel will be holding a happy hour from 6-8 p.m., February 11-14, which will feature Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries. Afterwards, have dinner at Insieme - what could be more appropriate than a restaurant with a name that means "together?"

• Then, when you get home, surprise your sweetie with some red velvet mini-cakes from Baked (359 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn, 718-222-0345). Other offerings include sugar heart cookies and spicy ancho cinnamon brownies. (I'm a huge fan of Baked - the bakery is so creative with its flavors, and the goodies are never cloying.)
  

Sweets News

Here is a bit of Sweets News that will be dear to every chocolate lover. Francois Payard's FC Chocolate Bar will soon be opening up at the Plaza Hotel (1 West 58th Street at Fifth Avenue). The location on the fourth floor of the Mauboussin jewelry store will be closing after tomorrow.

And for everyone who misses the Lexington Avenue bakery-restaurant, a new patisserie at 1330 Third Avenue (76th Street) will open up this spring. This is a sweet vindication, as an insane raise in rent was supposedly the reason for the closing of the 12-year-old original.

And in even more exciting news, on January 27 from 6-11 pm, you can taste Payard's brand-new line of chocolates which have been inspired by the flavors of Bordeaux wines. Each delicious chocolate will be paired with a different wine. To save on the price of admission to the event, go to www.lasoireedesgrandscrus.com and enter FRANCOISPAYARD for early access tickets (admission starts at 6 p.m.) or FRANCOISPAYARD MERCI for general admission tickets (7:30 p.m.)